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BiTurbo Bits & Tools Page.
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All of the pictures are taken with an Olympus C820L digital camera at 640x480 resolution.
They have been cropped, adjusted and resampled, then saved as JPEG.
Various bits & pieces.
The reverse idler gear after I cross drilled it.
This brought it down from 560g to 460g.
Next stage is to turn down the thickness of the section where the holes are.
The rest of the gears will receive the same treatment.
I will aim for 20-30% lightening as far out on the periphery as possible
without weakening it. I can assure you a normal HSS drill bit will not
even make a mark in this wheel. A carbide bit will though.
Did someone ask why?
To make gearchanges quicker by offering less work for the synchronizers.
Conrod and wrist pin.
The profile leaves little doubt that this piece will not give.
I never heard of one that did, have you?
Tools.
Gearbox bearing mounting tool.
It is used for pressing in the bearing on the gear axle.
First the big piece in the upper left is screwed all the way in and pushed
over the axle against the bearing.
The ring is put onto the axle against the tool.
Then the two halves of the bushing are closed over the axle.
The narrow section at the left will abut against the thicker outer end
of the axle.
Now the ring can be slided over the flange on the bushing, and the
tube in the right of the picture slided over the bushing to lock it
so it cannot be split.
Then the big tool is screwed out expanding until it presses against
the bearing on the big end, and the ring around the bushing at the
other end. Finally two tommybars are put into the holes in the tool
and used to force the bearing in place. I'll put up a sequence of
pictures next time I use it.
(You can click on the picture to get a larger one.)
Lower cambelt pulley remover.
Take off the ancillary equipment pulley.
Put the pin into the bolt hole.
Fasten the tool where the pulley was, and use the same screws to secure it to
the cambelt pulley.
Then hold the tommybar, and turn the screw until the pulley is off.
Cam retainer tool. It is used to hold the left cam in position
wile changing the cambelt.
After the engine is turned to where the overright marks on the camwheels are,
this tool is pressed against the camwheel and fastened to the cambelt shroud
using a bolt through the milled out slot. There is a recess in the slot
making it narrower in the bottom. The bolt will butt against this recess.
The slot make it possible to adapt to the position it should be in.
The cogged inside of the tool is a piece of an old cambelt glued onto the
tool. This made the tool easier to make than milling in the cogs.
BTW.: The right side cam does not need this tool, as the positions of the
camlobes will not try to move it away from it's correct position.
Cambelt tensioner tool.
It is used to hold the cambelt tensioner wheel tight while adjusting the spring.
The cylindric part sticking out from the right side of the tool is put
into the hole in the center of the tensioner pulley.
Then a bolt is put through the slot securing it to the engine block.
It is in fact quite easy to compress the tensioner and lock it by tightening the bolt
before putting it on. Then after fastening it, release it again to allow the
spring to do it's job.
Valve spring compressor.
Fasten the frame over the center of the head.
Then the pantograph arm will reach any valve.
The push cup at the end of the bolt will press down the valve spring seating ring, and the retainers
can be picked out through the openings you can distinguish on both sides
of the push cup. The bolt runs in a bearing in this cup.
Measuring wrist pin bore of conrod.
Actually the instrument is used hand-held.
But I had no camera stand, so I used a measurement stand instead.
The "warts" in the middle of the conrod shank just above the red dots are direction marks.
They shall point away from each other as the two conrods are mounted on the same crank pin.
The picture don't show it well, but the rods, end caps and wrist pins are numbered with a felt marker.
They should go back in at the same place where they came from. It is very important not to
mix the rods and caps.
If the rod bolts does not pass through the caps without snagging, the bolts may need to
be changed, and the hole in the cap must be cleaned up. Take care not to make it larger though.
Engine block with heads.
The heads are just placed on the empty block here.
There is no head gaskets in place.
The blue coating inside the waterways are a good sign that the anti-freeze
has left a corrosion protecting layer in the engine.
Still the heads were a bit corroded around the head bolts.
If anti-freeze had not been used, the heads would probably have stuck
hard on the bolts.
More tools soon.
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Last change: Mars 30 1998
hits to this location since 1998/03/27.
